Chanel No. 19 (1971)

Chanel No. 19 was composed by Henri Robert to commemorate Coco Chanel’s eighty-seventh birthday on August 19. Although its strange coldness has prompted many reviewers to conjure up the somewhat sexist image of a ruthless businesswoman who would wear this "in 3 inch stilettos and pencil skirts" (Tania Sanchez in Perfumes: The Guide), to me, its earthy, rooty notes suggest a witch in an enchanted forest rather than a bitch in a boardroom. 

I won a mini bottle of the vintage stuff, and expecting something bright, green and fresh, I put it on only to turn my nose at its oily, dusty rootiness. Back to the pile of perfumes for later inspection. Something's off, I thought. There's galbanum in this — why isn't it tooting its horn? Unlike Vent Vert, whose galbanum was flanked by an entire orchestra of notes to make it sing, Chanel No. 19 lurks quietly in dark woods.

Top notes: galbanum, neroli, bergamot
Heart notes: jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, iris
Base notes: vetiver, sandalwood, leather, musk

Woody, oily, and vegetal, with muted florals and a hint of fresh cut leaves and watery cucumber, Chanel No. 19's song sounds like piano notes played with the damper pedal down. This is a perfume that manages to seem both light and dark at the same time, like the moss, damp leaves, and mushrooms on a forest floor shaded by a canopy of trees. It is luxuriant, but not dazzling or bright, like semi-precious stones before they're polished, when their opacity hints at their rawness. 

Chanel No. 19's minimalism reminds me of Jean-Claude Ellena's perfumes, what one reviewer called a  nouvelle cuisine of perfumery. Instead of fresh or sunny notes, as there are in his Bulgari creation Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert, Chanel No. 19 has a diluted, earthy, vegetal transparency like freshly sliced root, or moss that has just been unmoored from its base at a tree. It doesn't release its scent right away. (I wonder if Ellena was inspired by Chanel No. 19? They seem like similar fragrances, Au Thé Vert the sunny, happy fragrance and Chanel No. 19 the melancholy, poetic one.)

I can't wait to get my reference Iris fragrance — the legendary Iris Gris by Jacques Fath. Although it imparts a dusty, rooty smell and by nature is rooted in the earth, Iris always manages to smell a little uncanny, otherworldly, moody, and even spooky, hence all the references to enchanted forests and witches.

In an interesting way, it's what Chanel No. 19 holds back — comforting sweetness, melody, and light — that is its virtue. You wouldn't ask atonal music for a melody, an herbal tincture for sugar, or a fairytale witch for kindness. It's what we deem missing (what is, in fact, its restraint) that makes this a haunting fragrance. From a pure scent standpoint (as you can see, it is easy to get lost in its connotations), the disquieting nature of the top and heart notes subside into a dreamy, comforting base of incredibly subtle leather and woods. From what I've read, it's this last part that is missing in the reformulation. It is hard to imagine this fragrance being true to itself without the woods and leather.

 Although I dismissed Chanel No. 19 at first as disturbing, the more I think about it and let it breathe on me, the more I love it. It's just hard to imagine when this scent would be appropriate; perhaps if I were casting spells and reading tarot cards. This is the Empress card, or the evil witch from Snow White. Cold, poetic, beautiful, bewitching.

UPDATE: THIS is why you need to try different concentrations of perfume...I won a vintage EDT Chanel No. 19, and I really pick up the leather and vetiver in this. It's even more beautiful than the EDP I originally based this review on! Wonderful multifaceted green combined with salty, scratchy vetiver. One thing is reconfirmed from trying this concentration: Ellena definitely had 19 in mind when composing Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert. The Chanel No. 19 EDT version is like a ray of sunlight in the dark, damp EDP forest...So beautiful I could cry.

                                                           * * * * * * * *

 "[P]erfume is, among other things, the most portable form of intelligence." — Luca Turin, Perfumes: The Guide.

I feel this is the place to address this arresting quote from Luca Turin (written in a review of Issey Miyake's Le Feu D'Issey). Chanel No. 19 was a similar fragrance for me, astounding me with its suggestiveness, its intelligence, its moods, its significations. I pondered this perfume as deeply as a film, book or song that moved me. It's been one of the many revelations for me in discovering perfume in this sensual/cerebral manner that there is, in fact, a limbic intelligence that we don't cultivate enough. Perfume is the perfect vehicle for exercising this intelligence and articulating what it has to tell us.

Here are thoughts from others on Chanel No. 19:

From Fragrantica: "Merges aggressive green note of galbanum and woody dusky note of iris as a harmonious bridge between delicate floral heart and leathery-woody base."

From Basenotes reviewers: (1) "I divide perfumes in categories by characters...Mothers- Chanel 5, Lovers (Agent Provocateur, Fracas)), virgins (Blush, Daisy). "And then there are business women, or bitches, as I prefer (Chanel 19, Cristalle)...the kind of women who always look perfect, wear suits, and give orders. They are indepedent and cold. They don't need anyone, including men." (2) "I find it harsh, sharp, and annoying, like something rotting, plants in a forest."

Tania Sanchez: "Striking and admirably dissonant portrait" "from the silvery hiss of its nail-polish remover beginnings to its poisonously green floral heart. It now lacks its former leathery chypre intensity and instead what it does now is peter off in clean vetiver. For all its springtime references, white flowers and leafy greenery, it keeps you in a boardroom in 3 inch stilettos and pencil skirts.  Haughty and immune to sweetness, with a somewhat antiseptic air, this extraordinary perfume appeals to anyone who has ever wished to know what it is to be heartless."

 

Comments

[He8ther]

Another fantastic post! Superb imagery. I am definitely in the forest with you on this one and not in the boardroom! Truth be told, I am actually in a medieval church, mosque or catacomb in a hot country. The chill of Chanel 19, to me, conjures up the quiet stillness of such places, and not the chilly mood of an ice-queen.

I find your comparison to the work of JC Ellena very intriguing. This isn't something I had thought of before, but now that you mention it, well perhaps there is a link. Henri Robert went on to create Cristalle after 19, and apparently he worked on this with Edmond Roudnitska. In his original Guide, Luca Turin describes Cristalle as like Diorella transposed an octave. In Chandler Burr's book 'The Perfect Scent' Ellena talks about how much he has been influenced by Roudnitska. Perhaps we might imagine that the latter's mature style was influenced by his collaboration with Robert? And so we have Cristalle as the missing link between No 19 and Ellena's work? A bit tenuous perhaps, but can we imagine Au Thé Vert as No 19 transposed an octave?

[Trisha Goodwin]

I have tried other perfumes, but always come back to Chanel no 19, it is me like nothing else is. Strange then to hear it described as cold and unfriendly, as I am thought of as very friendly, open and above all, kind, which I think I am. To me, other aspects hold sway - that deep, mossy, vegetal smell, yes, of damp forest floor, which I adore outside anyway, and often use in my artwork. To me it says earthy, sensuous and real, almost primeval femininity. Certainly there is nothing artifical, plastic, flowery or pink here, this is more real, deep and bewitching.

[mals86]

I do, do love No. 19 - prefer vintage edt. It's one of my invisible armor scents: cool, aloof, powerful yet feminine.

What an interesting idea re: JC Ellena! I really did *not* care for Au The' Vert, however. I found it dull, while No. 19 is invigorating.

[Perfumaniac]

Mals86, I love the idea of Chanel No. 19 as your invisible armor. Perfume is traditionally marketed to invite attention from the opposite sex; I wonder what the folks at Chanel would think if they knew many women wear No. 19 to project, in your case, power and aloofness, and for me, my inner witch!

[K.]

"its earthy, rooty notes suggest to me a witch in an enchanted forest rather than a bitch in a boardroom."
"

Yes! For me, it's elves... Elf queen(extrait or edp) or princess(edt) to be precise. 19 is the closest to a signature I've ever had. I find it soothing and magical... no "wire mother" (as per T. Sanchez _Perfumes, The Guide_ 2008) to my nose at all.

I just wish it was easier to find now. (I have to ask my French in-laws & friends to bring/send it lately...or be priced-gouged on EekBay)

Wonderful post! Love the Empress card too!

[Perfumaniac]

It is a magical fragrance, bewitching and beguiling. And now, thanks to you, K, I will add elves (Queen and Princess) to my imaginary cast of Chanel No. 19 woodland creatures!

[Sarah Witherby]

This is all so interesting !!

I am a long term no.19 user - the money I have spent on EDP EDT and Parfum in the last 10 years is depressing - the reformulation was monstrous! If you want to really savour the original find the body silk spray - it was divine!!

The green, the galbanum is GONE - the whole point of vintage 19 was that although WE couldn't smell it, it was there, cooking away! It lingered, it did indeed armour, it framed our skin - the new formulation spikes above it with some very synthetic chemical notes ... How can you produce a 'green' perfume synthetically? Where is that elusive vetiver whiff?

I Finally got hold of some vintage EDP on ebay and am almost happy again .. the vintage EDT (another waste of ££) just doesn't endure in the bottle (although it was always my favourite after the perfume) - the alcohol content 'turns' the fragrance ...

I am going to try some of the current perfume now, as I hear it's the closest to the original ... I just know it's going to have that telltale cheap vanilla in there somewhere -

Yes, our skin chemistry changes over the years (the well-known cry of the perfume counter sales person) but our NOSES don't.

I'm now trying vent vert vintage (Balmain) I know it won't be the same but it might just be 'dirty green' ... will report back

G

[Perfumaniac]

You are a true fan of this stuff, Sarah! Thanks for the information about how the vintage EDT might turn too easily and that the original body silk spray is divine. I appreciate this info, and I bet other Chanel No. 19 fans do, too.

[craegh-el]

...ah-the-smell-of-it...

[tangbel]

I have to admit I don't understand Tania's interpretation of No.19, nor comments about No.19 being cold & chilly.

No.19 is not a Guerlain; it is not Rococo; it is not Art Nouveau.

For me No.19 is a gorgeous Art Deco perfume. If I have to describe No.19 in a sentence, that would be it. Does anybody get what I am saying? Is Art Deco style considered cold & bitchy? :(

I am rather sadden this grand perfume has been made out to be a present-day boardroom a la Cruella de Vil. To recapture what women were up to in the Art Deco 1920s/30s :-
- women of the times were boldly embracing the post-WWI new order en masse, they won the right to vote in the No.19 Amendment, the lionhearted Amelia Earhart flew the first transatlantic flight in 1928, and the list goes on.

IMO it is the true spirit of those wonderful, bold, elegant and indomitable Art Deco era women embodied by No.19.

http://www.masterslodge.co.nz/hawkes_bay/art_deco_style/art_deco_style.htm
"The Art Deco era was one of contradictions. The role of women changed during World War I. With their husbands away at war, women had to take care of matters outside their homes and they were reluctant to give up their freedom when men returned. When that war ended in 1918 corsets and petticoats were no more. Many women received the right to vote and most women now wore short hair, short dresses and makeup in public for the first time. Many women also began smoking and driving cars. The Art Deco style infused the everyday world with an elegant style of cool sophistication. Travel was in the news with ocean liners racing the Atlantic and trains crossing continents, as speed became a metaphor for modern times."

My loving homage to Chanel No.19 (ignoring changes to formulation):-
http://www.makeupalley.com/product/userreviews.asp?u=tangbel

(Quoting Turin out of context) No. 19 is not a Coquette, it is a Duchess.

[Perfumaniac]

Hi tangbel: thanks for the interesting interpretation of Chanel No. 19! I'd be interested to hear more from you about why the notes speak "Art Deco" to you. For me, it's less situated in a time than in a mood, a state of mind. In fact, there's something timeless, green, woodsy and fairytale-ish about it. (Anyone who's ever read this review knows that's my story and I'm stickin' to it!)

The one thing that seems to come out from all our readings of this perfume, though — Tania's, yours, mine, the other commenters — is that Chanel No. 19 is for a strong woman.

[Anne]

I don't get Art Deco from No 19, but I don't get 1971 either, which was the actual release date. So yes, I'd agree I think that it sits outside time. I bought one of Chanel's 'Fragrance Wardrobe' gift sets for myself for Xmas (which includes mini of No 19 parfum) and I am excited and a bit nervous about how the new No 19 will compare to the one I have had all these years. I bought that in about 1989, goodness knows how I could afford it. Still a few precious drops left!

[breathe31]

In my lifetime I have gone through several bottles of no 19 (from 1976 to the present). I keep coming back to it because it is a classic and I keep hoping to see the allure of it, which to this day, I cannot. My preference is for the vintage Cristalle.

[Perfumaniac]

Yes, breathe31. They have very different personalities. No. 19 is a more introverted fragrance, I think.

[breathe31]

Barbara- just received my first bottle ever of Mitsouko last night. Unfortunately it is the reformulation but I guess the advantage of never having experienced the original is that one can love the reformulation without having the vintage to compare it to (then again my "bourgeois nez" can appreciate fine perfume but not have the sophistication to dislike reformulations!). So, here is my question: Was No. 19 trying to emulate its predecessor? For as I am sniffing away at my wrist Mitsouko brings to mind a more gentle, softer, sweeter and less bracing version of No. 19. Mitsouko and No. 19 make me think of a crisp autumn day. Any chance that one of these days you could do a post on "Scents by the Season"?

[Perfumaniac]

Hi breathe31. Congratulations on getting Mitsouko — from any era! (I have a tiny bit of the vintage, but haven't smelled the reformulation. Hey, as long as you like it!)

I think of Guerlain's Mitsouko and Chanel's No. 19 as very different chypres. They're both subtle and contemplative in character, but Mitsouko has that beautiful peach note, and Chanel No. 19 is green and woodsy, withholding sweetness and being almost more vegetal than anything else. No. 19 reminds me of autumn, too! I will definitely consider doing a perfume by the seasons post at some point. I should do more themed posts....

[Cathlyn]

No doubt about it- I love this huff stuff. And to mention a few things you other fanatics have said... Yes to the forest and the elves... magical, bewitching...Chanel No. 19 lurks quietly in dark woods. it is
uncanny, otherworldly, moody, primeval . Well, I agree with it all except "It's just hard to imagine when this scent would be appropriate."
(sorry Barbara)... I wear it in heels, a nurses uniform, and while I'm barefooted! As long as it takes me where I want to be- it's the right time. Vintage, of course.

[Perfumaniac]

Cathlyn, to each her own! Wear it in your nurses uniform and I'll wear it when the moon is full and I'm reading Tarot by moonlight. :-)

[Cathlyn]

Oh I wear it at the caldron with my conical hat too!

[breathe31]

Ok, I take back what I said in March about no. 19. I had given my mother a bottle of EDP quite a few years ago because my family baulked everytime I wore it. She returned the empty bottle to me when it was done. I was in my basement the other night sniffing the caps of empty bottles when, on a whim, I tried to "eek" out whatever was left in the no. 19. WOW! I guess the last time I wore it must have been 15 years ago..funny how time changes your taste in perfume. When I came upstairs my daughters said "What smells so good?" and my husband said "I'm getting a headache!" Not only did he make me wash it off but I was forced to sleep on the couch that night because it still lingered on my skin! I thought about getting another vintage bottle because I can clearly see how exquisitely brilliant and beautiful this fragrance is (but I think my husband would kill me! It's beauty will have to live in my olfactory memory).

[Joan]

My impression of Chanel No. 19 is that it changes during the drydown from cold to warm, and manages to tie together all kinds of unrelated notes from galbanum to violet to amber without losing its cohesiveness.

I never thought of it as particularly otherworldly, but I can see that now that I read your review.

I'm glad someone else doesn't see it simply as the bitch in the boardroom.

[Trish B]

Love this review and the comments. I've been wearing Chanel No 19 since it was released, and it is my signature perfume. I'm a very, very strong introvert-and it suits that just fine. I also love the forest imagery-and the lurking lol. I don't see it as bitchy boardroom-although others would say I am (quietly) strong!

[Perfumaniac]

Hi Trish B. Thanks for the comment! Do you wear the EDT or EDP? The initial review was for the parfum, and even though I love the EDT, all that lurking and forest stuff was inspired by the EDP. I dont think Tania Sanchez was wrong about the bitch in the boardroom business — there is a strength and introversion as you say, and perhaps some coldness — her imagery just didnt jibe with me. It seems much more of a spiritual scent, if I can go that far with it.

[Trish B]

I wear the EDT-and I don't remember when I bought it. It's the refills for the square container-50 ml spray. I have half a container left-and one refill in the original wrap in the fridge. I do wish they still made the real perfume. I bought one small bottle about 20 years ago, so it is long gone. I used to be able to buy the refills in the military exchange stores (one near Wash DC has it and my mother used to get it for me). I don't know if they stock it anymore. Hope I don't have to find a substitute! You know-the coldness and spiritual ideas are spot on.

[Nancy]

Thank you for all the reviews on this blog, and especially for your thoughtful appreciation of No. 19. I have long been bothered by the common depictions of it as "bitchy," "bitter," "cold," etc. They reveal a lack of understanding of the scent's true nature, which I think your review captures beautifully.

They also reveal a casual, offhand sexism that I find disturbing. The "bitch in a boardroom" image is more than "somewhat" sexist, implying as it does that any woman found in a boardroom is automatically a "bitch" by virtue of her presence there. One of the Basenotes reviewers you quoted here actually considers that distasteful term a synonym for "businesswoman"! So women have no place in business, or in decision-making positions? I wonder what Estee Lauder would have said about that ...

Vilifying women for simply doing their jobs and for dressing in the standard uniforms associated with those jobs (suits, heels) reflects *deeply* sexist thinking. Do we talk about "the kind of guys who wear suits and ties -- businessmen, or, as I prefer to call them, bastards"? I think not.

As for No. 19 itself, I enjoy the EDT in the fall, for its subtle leather note, and the parfum in the winter for its rosier quality. I have some vintage splash bottles of EDT but have to agree that they haven't held up well; they smell like a very oakmossy men's cologne.