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March 30, 2010


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I've only just discovered your blog, looking for reviews of Crepe de Chine by Millot. What a fantastic array of vintage perfumes you've sampled - am looking forward to delving into the archives and comparing notes. Thanks for sharing your impressions!

Best wishes

Kristy Victoria

Oh this sounds fabulous! I am a huge vetiver freak. I love to wear Encre Noire layered with Sycomore and some CdG Vettiveru for the maximum vetiver experience. Another new scent added to my "to sniff list!" :)


Welcome, Emma! Glad you found me. Do come back when you're moved to comment! Have you tried Amazone?


Kristy, If you like vetiver then you should definitely give Amazone a shot. Luca Turin damns it with faint praise in Perfumes: The Guide. (Hermès tends to be lauded for their high-quality ingredients but dismissed for their lack of creativity.) This is his withering assessment: "A beautifully done and deeply uninteresting woody floral, notable only for the fact that the competition is so bad these days that Amazone enables you to appreciate quality in its pure state..." Hmmm. I wouldn't go that far — Amazone is beautiful and understated.


A significant number of the fragrances that Turin likes, I HATE. (Insolence springs to mind...) It's not a foolproof system - after all, he does give my much-adored Le Temps d'une Fete five stars - but quite a number of things he "damns with faint praise," saying something is quality but boring, I enjoy. Climat is one shining example.

That said, I'm not a big fan of vetiver unless it's quiet (No. 19), so I don't think Amazone is up my alley. On the other hand, I once thought Silences was shrieky, so I could be wrong.


Mals: Tocade is one of the lauded Turin/Sanchez fragrances I anticipated with bated breath — only to hate, and I mean, hate it. I thought it was chemical, obnoxious and unfortunately tenacious. I tried it again and again, only to return to my initial conclusion. Say what you will about objectivity in perfume sniffin' — you can't make yourself like something, and beauty is subjective.


Thank you :) I'd never even heard of Amazone until your review.... Vetiver's a note I'm learning to love: not as a star, but as a supporting act (e.g. Mahora. Yes, I actually like Mahora)! Combining it with blackcurrant and hyacinth sounds like a challenging combo to me - but SO Much more interesting than 90% of modern releases.

As expected, I'm really enjoying your reviews very much - your take on Colony, L'Heure Bleue, Ma Griffe, and on No. 19, which is fascinating. I really need to wrestle with No. 19 again - I find it has sharp thorns.

Happy sniffing! - Emma


Thanks, Emma. And I'm going to have to take notes on the contemporary perfumes you like — pretty sophisticated!


I've worn Amazone Light for many summers but I've outgrown it a little. It is beautiful. I'm ready to take on a more serious scent and I'm in the process of trying Amazone. So far, it smells much more sparkly on paper than on skin. I got a boozy/syrupy blast as if from an SL fragrance to start with, but it settled down to be... not particularly interesting but pleasant. Not as dry as I expected.
I've just had another sniff at the paper and it's doing Amazone Light! Perhaps someone pre-sprayed it before I picked it up?

Thank you for the Antilope reference, it is much more affordable and I might order that first before committing to Amazone.


Hi, Limony. I love vintage Antilope, and I don't think it's that hard to obtain in a mini. It's an unusual and wearable scent and smells like a warm savanna plus berries. Come back and tell me what you thought if you try it!

Andre Moreau

Hi Barbara,
I finally succedeed in performing a gas-chromatography on a Vintage Amazone EdT, and got results, analysis and discussion.
What a find, to discover REAL rose, jasmine, narcissus in one of my favourite perfumes!


cheers, Andre


That is so cool, Andre. Looking forward to reading and sharing this!


Do you think the new version has changed from the old one? I purchased it in the early 90's but didn't like it,and I don't remember how I got rid of it. But it sounds strange as when I remember the smell now(and I quite do clearly) I just fall in love with it. Do you think it's in every Hermes shop now? And did you have similar experience with other perfumes.


Hi, Sherihan. Thanks for the question. If you loved Amazone when it came out, and a subsequent formula wasnt as nice, it was probably reformulated. It happens all the time....get a vintage version on eBay!

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