Can perfume smell fluorescent? After my first hit of Yendi, an odd and intriguing floral by Capucci, I can say that the answer is yes. First impression? It's a Gatorade lime-floral popsicle meets musky fur.
Yendi opens on a high note that combines fizzy citrus (it read as lime to me), soft-powdery sweet hyacinth, and clear rose and bright florals, including an intense lily-of-the-valley.There's a leafy-green facet reminiscent of coriander, but I don't see that in the official H&R list of notes.
Top notes: Aldehydes, bergamot, hyacinth, peach, raspberry
Heart notes: Rose, honey, lily of the valley, cyclamen, clove bud, orris, orchid
Base notes: Sandalwood, musk, cedarwood, amber, styrax, vanilla, moss
Yendi warms up fast, thanks to a fleeting clove bud note that bridges the perfume's crisp top and heart to its woody-musky-incensey and powdery drydown.
The styrax and musk base gives Yendi a fresh, clean-but-slightly-dirty — perfume plus body odor — scent that I find incredibly sexy. I kept sniffing myself to see if it was my body odor I was smelling (don't worry, I wasn't in public!) or something produced by the perfume. After about an hour, my EDT Yendi left a faint amber/vanilla impression with a whiff of powdery orris. Wow.
This juxtaposition of fizzy citrus and clear florals with a subtle musky drydown makes Yendi my kind of spring fragrance — bright but complex. Unlike the "clean" fragrances that came to dominate the 90s, Yendi (and many other 70s florals, chypres and green scents) maintains an allegiance to the body by retaining traces of its musky sweat in the notes. These scents aren't trying to mask the body — just embrace it.
I'm not a fan of powdery fragrances, and in subsequent sniffings, that intitial lime fizziness in Yendi wasn't there as prominently as its powdery aspect, but I'm sure if I pick it after a few days, it will unfold anew again. Fantastic.
A note on the name Yendi, and the designer Roberto Capucci. Yendi is the name of a city in Ghana, and I can't for the life of me figure out if there is any sort of connection to the perfume. As for the designer, the "Givenchy of Rome" Roberto Capucci was known for his colorful, sculptural gowns. I was amazed when I searched for some of his dresses, which really are wearable art: fantasias of origami'd, paper-machied looking wonders. Below is just a smattering (click on the image to enlargen it), but if you want to see more and get to know Capucci's work better, check out the following links: Ruckstuhl, Light Color Sound, Belle's Pics, Acemicaylak, and Mondo DelGusto's and Jenn in Rome's flickr pages.