Jean-Louis Scherrer's Scherrer (1979)

 Scherrer 1, Jean-Louis Scherrer's grand '70s chypre has the bitter, green and slightly intimidating tough lady air of Bandit, Cabochard, and later, Paloma Picasso's homage to those bitch-on-wheels fragrances. Spicy, floral, and bitter, Scherrer is tempered by a warmth in the drydown that adds an animalic, approachable softness belied by the tough gal act.

Although Chanel No. 19 ads imagined its wearer as a boardroom bitch, the newly liberated '70s femme fatale whose weapon was emasculation in the workplace, I've argued that it's in fact too witchy and otherworldy a fragrance to have reference to something as mundane as the corporate boardroom; its nature is rooted in a shaded fairytale forest full of mushrooms, moss and wet earth. Scherrer, on the other hand. . .

Top notes: cassis, hyacinth, violet, aldehyde, green note

Heart notes: jasmine, tuberose, rose, carnation, orris, gardenia

Basenotes: sandalwood, vanilla, musk, cedar, vetiver, amber, moss, civet

Scherrer is for the woman's woman — this is no perfume for an ingenue. Its florals are funky and indolic; its green notes, rather than being fresh, are bitter and bracing; its softness and warmth, perhaps provided by Costus oil as suggested by one blogger, suggest unwashed hair, the sensuality of a woman who neglects herself.

Mrs. Robinson would wear Scherrer, and only a few young men could handle her.

Comments

[Flora]

I absolutely LOVE this perfume, I first wore it about 25 years ago and I recently got a "vintage" bottle (Hard to call anything younger than I am vintage!. The current version is still wonderful, but oh my, the oakmoss in the old bottle is just stunning. It was my introduction to the power of oakmoss and is responsible for my undying love for the stuff. I want to mail a packet of Scherrer to the idiots at IFRA just so their alarm will go off. :-D

[Lynx]

Scherrer is one of the best perfumes of all time.
Thank God so few of the "trendy" geese who will wear anything as long as it is endorsed by some "celebrity" don't know much about perfume and so ignore Scherrer!

I wouldn't call it "tough" myself (even though there is nothing inherently wrong with the term). To me, it is pure joy of living, the spirit of a dynamic and sexy woman, regardless of her age. (I wear it, but it smells even better on my mother).

Oh, and you are right: while I am not a Mrs Robinson, I have yet to meet a man - young or not - who could "handle" me... -:)

[Lynx]

P.S. Sorry for the miswritten the second sentence.
That's what happens when I edit my writing while wearing one contact lens only... :-)

[Perfumaniac]

Scherrer really is a beautiful perfume. I heard about it through Octavian's blog 1000fragrances in his post on Costus root/oil (http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/2009/01/meet-mr-costus.html). He listed fragrances that have this sebum-y/dirty hair smell, and being a bit of the perfume skank-o-phile, decided to try every one. They were all amazing. Thanks for stopping by! 

[Perfumaniac]

Oh, yeah, and stay tuned for a review of Scherrer II — the fruity chypre with a pineapple note! Such a different perfume, but interesting in its own way.

[Mals86]

L'Arte di Gucci contains costus as well, if you need a further push in that direction...

[Perfumaniac]

Third times a charm — you're the third person to mention L'Arte de Gucci and guess what: I got some! Stay tuned for the review, and I will link to yours, too. :)

Interesting that your bottle mentions Costus, Cassis and Tagetes (marigold) but these notes aren't listed on Fragrantica or Basenotes. (I will include them anyway and reference you. Thanks!) I LOVE Costus; you should try Fille d'Eve and Rumeur. Amazing.

[Aquaria]

In 1983 or 84, I was given a huge sample of this, a .5-.75 oz bottle, at one of the old Robinson's department stores in Orange County, CA. It lasted nearly forever. A little went a VERY long way.

[Gio]

I'm desperately searching for the first Scherrer's perfume TV spot but I didn't get nothing at all. Nothing on YouTube and the total void throughout the web. That TV ad I remember should have dated around 1980 to 1986. I was just an adolescent, at that time but the music and the model's gesture caught me at first sight. Anyone could please help me?

[Dee]

This is my most ultimate perfume I have ever worn...have been wearing it for sooooo many years...very hard to get hold of...and wondering if the are still making it...I live in Australa ...very hard to obtain...except when I can find it online...any clues on best place to obtain it...? Thanks from a genuine lover of this unique perfume..

[Perfumaniac]

Hi Dee. I love it too. I see it on eBay now (many bottles, most vintage), and some arent too expensive. Go get you some!

[Carol]

Hi Dee, I found some at www.thefragrancefactory.com
they had the perfume also. Go get you some!

[Kathleen Johnson]

Funny, the description of the woman who wears this. I bought it the first time I encountered it as a divorce present to myself. :-)

[Perfumaniac]

Oh my god, that's amazing. You sensed this perfume was about strength and independence!

Sent from my iPhone

[Mistress Joy]

I have been unable to find any info that would help me distinguish a true vintage bottle from the revived, reformulated version. Does anyone have packaging or bottle info (numbers, address of house, etc.) ? that would help? It's not on Raiders of the Lost Scent or Cosmetics Wizard.

So, how to tell the year of production on JLS?

[Perfumaniac]

Ive always had luck with eBay and typing in vintage first

Sent from my iPhone

[Karsten]

Hello Barbara.
I've recently discovered this beautiful and interesting review, I am very very intrigued by the civet and costus combination of notes. I would like to ask which is, according to your experience, the better choice between EdP and Edt (vintage formula).
Thank you

Karsten