Crepe de Chine by F. Millot (1925)

 Smelling Crepe de Chine is like meeting a beautiful, funny woman with a Ph.D in linguistics who also happens to speak seven languages, knows how to cook, has a way with children and small animals, composes haunting tunes on the guitar, and smiles at everyone.

This is, in other words, one fine perfume. It's floral, intensely so, without being too cloying or girly. The wonderful flower notes are blended so well that it is only the brightest and sharpest — ylangylang, lilac and jasmine—that poke their petals out of the bouquet looking for attention. But as soon as you smell the flowers, there's a reserve and elegance — it is a chypre after all: bergamot, oakmoss, patchouli, vetiver — that tells you, in spite of its outward friendliness, not to get too familiar with it even though it's extending its hand. The chypre quality gives it an architectural formality.

This floral chypre has a nice balance of sweetness and spice, sparkle and depth, friendliness and reserve. I smell this and think of someone like Christianne Amanpour, Susan Sarandon, Tilda Swinton, Jacqueline Bisset. Intelligent, sexy and open women you nevertheless can't get too comfortable with. A woman who's lived a life, but instead of being  worse for the wear, is the woman you'd love to sit next to at a dinner party.

Luca Turin said in Perfumes: The Guide, that the primary qualities of chypres (perfumes with oakmoss, labdanum, bergamot mix) are their balance and abstraction. I love the idea that in every chypre there's a transformation of the natural notes into something that shimmers and hovers above representation. This calls to mind the way we can make out the portion of a guitar or a newpaper or a person's face peeking out of the  geometric play of forms in a modernist painting. (As in this George Braque.) Golden. Glorious. Gorgeous. 

(PLEASE NOTE: I found this in drafts from March 23! Wow.)

Also: I found this fantastic anecdote on Basenotes from one reader: She says that in 1969 when she was 19, she was on a New York City bus and saw an ad for Crepe de Chine that read, "If you are wearing Crepe de Chine, this is your bus." Another ad with the picture of a partly empty bottle near it read, "By this time, you should have quite a past." How fun and sexy! She says it made her feel so "worldy and sophisticated." 

Comments

[Judy]

On my first visit to Paris (1948) this was the perfume that I had to find for my sister-in-law (couldn't get it in England after the war). You would not believe how many shops I visited trying to track it down.

[Madeline]

This was "MY" perfume - why was it ever discontinued.

[Perfumaniac]

I know, Madeleine. You can still buy it, though. It might not be exactly the same with age, but its still quite beautiful.Try eBay or miniatureperfumeshoppe.com

[Jewel]

When I was a young girl , my mother always smelled of
the original perfume, crepe du chene, by Jean Patou.
I have tried for years to find this perfume again, &
only just now discovered it was remade by Millot.
What a lovely perfume. Can you buy it somewhere &
how much is it?

[Perfumaniac]

Hi Jewel,

Crepe de Chine by F. Millot was actually the first: 1925. Patou's Crepe de Chine came out in 1935, according to the UK-based perfume encyclopedia Perfume Intelligence. I had never heard of the Patou version! I checked on eBay and couldn't find it (the Patou, that is). The F. Millot is readily available. Good luck, and thanks for stopping by!

[SALMA]

WHEN I WAS A VERY YOUNG GIRL MY MOTHER WORE CREPE DE CHINE. I LOVED ITS AROMATIC, FLOATING, DREAMY AND OUT OF THIS WORLD SCENT.AND I ENJOYED LOOKING AT THE BEAUTIFUL ELEGANT AND IRREDESENT GREEN COLOR BOTTLE.SHE USED TO HAVE 3 KIND OF SIZES. LARGE, MEDIUM AND SMALL. I STILL REMEMBER THIS DEIGHTFUL PERFUME AROUND MY AURA AND IN THE CHAMBER OF MY HEART.
PLEASE LET ME KNOW WHERE I COULD GET. IT IS IMPORTANT FOR ME TO SMELL THIS PERFUM AND FEEL MY MOTHER AGAIN.
MILLION OF BLESSINGS AND THANKS! SALMA

[Kisa]

This was my fragrance in the late 60s and early 70s. My first serious scent. I remember those NYC bus ads well. Does anyone know who designed the bottle?

[DeeDee]

I can barely remember the scent, but I CAN remember how heavenly it was! All I ever had was one of those little tall round sample bottles, but it was the best perfume I've ever smelled. I'd love to be able to get it again, but where?

[DeeDee]

If I could get an original bottle of Crepe de Chine that was sealed, would it still be usable?

[Perfumaniac]

Hi DeeDee, it wouldnt even need to be sealed. Ideally boxed and kept away from light and heat. Ive had good luck with them. Go to eBay and find someone with a good score. You should be able to find one thats not too expensive. Just shop around, and make sure you type Im vintage..,good luck

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