Cinnabar by Estee Lauder (1978)

Cinnabar, a spicy/ambery floral Oriental, is an exemplary fall/winter comfort scent. It progresses from gourmand warmth to spice to indolic florals/ripe fruit in a seamless and intoxicating way.

Initially, the volume on amber and vanilla are turned up to add gourmand richness to the cinnamon note, while the spices and soapy-powdery florals (jasmine, ylang-ylang and orris) hover in the background. (I have two sets of perfume notes; the latter, with its orange blossom and incense, seems more comprehensive.)

Top notes: Aldehydic notes, bergamot, peach, spicy notes; Heart notes:Cinnamon, ylang-ylang, clove, orris, jasmine; Base notes: Amber, patchouli, vanilla, vetiver (Haarman & Reimer)

 Top notes: Spices, peach, cloves, bergamot, tangerine, orange blossom; Heart notes: Carnation, cinnamon, jasmine, ylang, rose; Base notes: Tolu balsam, sandalwood, amber, patchouli, benzoin, vanilla, vetiver, incense (from Fragrantica)

What's interesting about Cinnabar is that what you'd normally consider base notes (amber and vanilla) recede as the scent develops; it's as if the normal sequence of notes moves backwards. The indolic (ripe on the verge of going bad) florals (jasmine and ylang-ylang) combined with powdery orris and incense notes take over, drying down to a funky-fruity note of peach, the lingering note of bruised florals remaining steady throughout. An occasional waft of amber/vanilla returns in the dry down, but it becomes a mulling spice kind of floral, for the most part, as the scent disappears.

I didn't think Cinnabar was as symphonic and complex as it actually is the first time I smelled it. Perhaps this is because it's so expertly blended that the cinnamon shone through my first drive-by sniffing, and that's all I could focus on. It may not be as striking as Opium, which it's been unfavorably compared to, but I wouldn't hesitate to reach for this rich scent if I were in a decadent mood. Gorgeous...

 

Comments

[Vintage Lady]

Every time I smelled Cinnabar for the first notes, I didn't like. They seemed to me too sour but then.. after a few moments and more than this, the base notes left a wonderful smell on my skin. it is a perfume I like but only on rare occasions.

[Estee Lauder Review]

Do they still sell it? I've never seen it in stores.

[Perfumaniac]

I can't remember the last time I saw it at a beauty counter, ELR, but I know they're still selling it on discount perfume sites, etc.

[Shelley]

When I worked for Lauder about 7 years ago we used to keep the older Lauder fragrances hidden away at the counter, but we still sold them...you would also see the Cinnabar gift sets at Christmas. However, I did work at one of the more "affluent" Dillard's in Dallas, so I am unsure if other Dillard's carried the older scents at all. I would try Dillard's in your area if you are looking for these fragrances. Dillards.com sells Cinnabar and older Lauder scents as well.

[Perfumaniac]

Thanks Shelley! Good to know. Im sure there are Cinnabar lovers out there who will be happy to get this info...

[Hildegerd]

Do the bottles still look the same?