Que Sais-Je? by Jean Patou (1925)

Fashion designer Jean Patou (1887- 1936), known for sportswear that is said to have influenced even Coco Chanel, cemented his name in history with the release of the classic floral perfume Joy. Marketed as “the costliest perfume in the world” for its use of rose and jasmine in unprecedentedly high concentrations, Joy was released, improbably enough, during the Great Depression (1929).

Although he is best known for Joy, Jean Patou also released Ma Collection, twelve perfumes originally launched between 1925 and 1964,  and they’re nothing to sneeze at. (Actually, Que Sais-Je?, the Chypre I’m smelling, IS something to sneeze at! That always happens to me with oak moss, though.)

Ma Collection was re-released in 1984 using the original formulas by in-house perfumer Jean Kérleo (1967 – 97), who is now president of the perfume museum Osmothèque in Paris.*

The first three perfumes in Ma Collection released in 1925— Amour, Amour, Que-Sais Je? and Adieu Sagesse — were inspired by the different stages someone who has fallen in love goes through. Amour, Amour (Love, Love) is self-explanatory. Que Sais-Je? (What do I know?), represents the devil-may-care attitude of those who live by their hearts and not their heads; it’s what the enamored says to herself when she decides to give in whole-heartedly. Adieu Sagesse (Farewell, Wisdom) means she’s in deep, and there’s no going back.

So what does a perfume called Que Sais-Je? smell like? The first thing that hit me was an intense honeyed peachy-suede-leather accord that reminded me of Iris Gris and Empreinte, both peachy affairs. Unlike Iris Gris, which smells monumentally strange (like peach-scented pastry dough, according to some), and Empreinte, which is a more delicate and refined peach-melon leather chypre, Que Sais-Je? is a more straight-forwardly fruity-spicy Chypre. (Some people compare it to Femme, but that fruit Chypre seems way less fruity to me than QSJ.) I'm not sure I smell hazelnut, but there is a marzipan-like richness to QSJ that perhaps comes from this note.

Notes: Peach, honey, hazelnut (from Helg at Perfume Shrine);  Perfumer: Henri Alméras

Although there’s some debate about whether it’s Amour, Amour or Que Sais-Je? that was marketed for brunettes, the ad at the top left lists Que Sais-Je? underneath the brunette mannequin. (Amour, Amour is supposed to be for blondes; Adieu Sagesse for redheads.)

Like Colony (a wonderfully weird pineapple chypre and the only other Patou I’ve sniffed), the strong chypre base creates an interesting dissonance with the syrupy sweetness of its beginning. Perhaps like the woman who has given in to love — to hell with the consequences — Que Sais-Je? asks us to think of her as strong and daring as well as girlishly impetuous. The more I sit with Que Sais-Je?, the more I respect its translation into perfume notes what plunging headlong into love is like, which apparently is a combination of syrupy sweetness and fiery passion.

And if such things sway you, consider this: indie perfumer Andy Tauer lists Que Sais-Je? as one of the top 10 perfumes you should try before you die.

* This historical information garnered from a great post about Ma Collection perfumes on Perfume Shrine.

Here's a great review of these Patous in French from the perfume blog Ambre Gris.

 

 

Comments

[Six']

Perfumaniac,

I'll add (ha!) that this add is the definitive proof that Que Sais-Je? was indeed for brunettes: the wavy lines of text underneath the two ladies states "Êtes-vous blonde? Amour Amour" and "Êtes-vous brune? Que Sais-Je?", so there can't be any doubt left.

At any rate, I find Que Sais-Je? drop-dead gorgeous. It's not often that an unapologetic chypre turns out that becoming!

[Cheryl]

This inspired me to sample to other vintage Patous I have more attentively. I tried in the summer, but somehow couldn't focus on them. I tried Cocktail, a kind of mean rose fruit chypre, and L'Heure Attendu, which smells exactly like a floral woodsy Indian incense oil. I didn't fall in love with either, but I was surprised by their strength of conviction.

[Perfumaniac]

Cheryl, Your descriptions of those two Patous sound enticing. I have only smelled Colony, and must admit it's one of my favorites. Pineapple chypre: so weird, and so right...

[Perfumaniac]

Hi Six, "drop-dead gorgeous" is right! Also, thanks for reminding about your beautiful blog and your own writing on Patou's Ma Collection. I added a link at the end of the post. :)

[Gardenfairy Mw]

I love these old Patou perfumes. Thanks for reminding me. Unfortunately I once swapped the miniatures collection for two "real" flacons with original juice inside. I still miss them....
kind regards,Martina

[Perfumaniac]

The minis are cute, aren't they Martina? Which one is your favorite? Nice that you have them in flacon form, though! And you can always find them on eBay, which I'm sure you know about. Thanks for stopping by!

[Vintage Lady]

Love Amour,Amour by Patou. I have never tried Que sais-je? I should, now I know.

[Anon]

Hmm, I too have heard some people compare Que Se Jais to Rochas Femme, but I disagree. It's L'Heure Attendue from the Ma Collection that smells like a dead ringer for Femme.

Que Se Jais smells a lot like Deci Dela by Nina Ricci-- all powder and peach and hazelnut.

[julie]

I'm swimming in samples from a friend, including Caron Acaciosa and QueSais-je? I tried the Acaciosa first, a sweet and sour honeyed fruit and floral that is all sunshine to me, simply glorious. Que Sais-je? is all that on a chypre base. I get some amber there, too. Sumptuous.

[Perfumaniac]

Nice to have friends who share vintage perfume samples, julie! I havent tried Acaciosa. Sounds wonderful...

[julie]

I must have 70 decants at home, courtesy of some kind "fume friends". I will surely set some aside to pass on. Caron and I get along, and who doesn't get along w/Patou?

[julie]

Do a year-end sniff and re-sniff of the bounty of samples received this year. Am I getting osmanthus, in addition, here? I'm smelling something that is my impression of osmanthus, which I'll admit I'm not great at picking out, but would call a dusty apricot rather than peach.

[david lincoln brooks]

I have long thought that Tom Ford's MOSS BRECHES was an homage to QUE SAIS-JE? "Nostalgic" peach head descending into a smart warm, tweedy chypre.